Modern Retro Eyes
“We focused on this burgundy double eyeliner top and bottom, but keeping a gap between—it’s quite ’60s, you know, having this double line and lots of mascara top and bottom. In the waterline, there is white eyeliner. So it’s elements of the ’60s, but I wanted to keep it quite modern,” says Armani Beauty’s Global Makeup Artist, Hiromi Ueda. “Sun-kissed cheeks were created by using bronzing powder mixed with cheek tint in Rosy Peach. The focus is going to be on the eyes, so I wanted to keep the lips really natural and soft. I’m using Lip Power mixed with Prisma Glass in the center, so having two different textures creates more multi-dimensional lips, giving an effortless elegance to the look.”
Keeping with the ’60s theme, Marco Rambaldi featured a wash of pastel on the eyes that gave a mod effect. With the bright lilac eye paint taking the spotlight, models forwent mascara or liner and kept the rest of the face fresh.
Fresh Faces
Minimalist beauty returns every season, but the spring ahead is ushering in a more utilitarian version of clean skin. Khaite focused on dewy skin and strong features, like statement brows created by Nars. Celebrity esthetician and Rescue Spa founder Danuta Mieloch deployed her multiuse balm, the Danucera Cerabalm, to not only prep the skin, but also hydrate and add glow.
At Brandon Maxwell, Merit Beauty gave models a slight flush on the cheeks and lips by applying a neutral blush to the apples and blotting a lipstick using a tissue, for a barely-there tint.
When in doubt, a touch of highlighter is the only product you need to fake a plump, hydrated complexion. Jason Wu used his highlighter powder just at the tops of the cheekbones, for subtle shine.
Pops of Shimmer
Strategically placed shimmer packed quite a punch at Alice + Olivia’s Spring/Summer 2025 presentation, courtesy of Tarte Cosmetics. Makeup artist Michela Wariebi placed a shimmer shadow in the inner corner and center of the eyelid, and buffed it upward and out for a subtle effect.
For a bolder look, opt for graphic shimmer shadow, as seen on the Naeem Khan Spring/Summer 2025 runway.
Even Chanel brought a glimpse of glimmer to its Spring/Summer 2025 runway. Models wore a thick stripe of black eyeliner topped with a mix of black and metallic sequins.
Makeup artist Pat McGrath gave shimmer lips a modern twist with metallic lip liner, proving you can wear shimmer without looking like a disco ball. “You can have fun with your lips by going in with eyeshadow,” McGrath says, sharing that she used an eyeliner brush and her Luminous Legends: Mega Eye Shadow Palette to place a mix of sparkle shadows on the cupid’s bow and below the bottom lip. ” It’s such a small gesture that looks incredibly luxe–it’s like jewels on your lips,” she adds. The contrast of the sparkle liner against bare lips makes this look super wearable.
Rainbow Lashes
Lashes were the star of the show at Diotima, where colorful mascara—ranging from scarlet to stark white—gave the eye lots of dimension next to bare, glowing skin.
Celebrity makeup artist Sheika Daley sent blue mascara down LaQuan Smith’s runway to produce a “sexy look, but one that appeared more demure than the graphic liner that we would typically create,” she tells Bazaar.
Bitten Lip
Wine shades usually trend during the fall season, but a fresh way to bring the color into spring is by incorporating a barely-there, bitten lip color. Makeup artist Romy Soleimani gave the skin a plump glow by pressing Retrouvé’s Balancing Facial Oil lightly into the skin before applying a mix of pink and berry shades to the lip.
A feminine cat-eye liner was juxtaposed with a glossy natural lip at Carolina Herrera. The brand’s plum-hued gloss enhanced the natural color of the models’ lips while adding lots of shine.
Lip stains are a great option for creating a just-bitten lip without adding heaviness. Makeup artist Charlie Riddle mixed a purple and nude shade of the Stila Cosmetics Calligraphy Lip Stain in shades Malala and Elizabeth, respectively, before adding an oil for a healthy shine.
Party-Girl Grunge
While there was plenty of minimalist makeup on the runway, we also saw looks on the opposite end of the spectrum, including smoldering, grungy eyes. At Christian Siriano, models showcased smudged eyeliner that was reminiscent of ’90s party girls like Kate Moss and Courtney Love.
At Dior’s Spring/Summer 2025 show, makeup artist Peter Philips told Bazaar that he set out to create an “après-sport look” that perfectly blends sporty and grungy. He drew the Diorshow On Stage Crayon in 099 Black into the bottom lash line and then had models squeeze their eyes shut before blending the liner with his fingers for a messy, nonchalant effect. To complete the look, Philips placed a neutral blush on the apples of the cheek to mimic a post-workout flush.
Cre: Harper’s Bazaar Magazine