Hanoi – where small streets weave through the bustling crowds, where the aroma of hot pho in the morning, a basket of bún ốc (snail rice noodle soup) at the alley’s entrance, or the calls of street vendors at dusk have become familiar sounds. Hanoi is not just about tangible heritage but also memories and cultural imprints deeply embedded in the souls of its old quarter residents. All these beauties are vividly captured in the pages of “Sketching the Flavors of Hanoi’s Old Quarter” – a special artistic project by the Hanoi Urban Sketching Group, dedicated to preserving the soul of the city through each sketch and heartfelt story.
Kim Ngan Communal House – Where the journey began
On March 23, 2025, the Kim Ngan Communal House (42 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem) witnessed a special moment: the official announcement of the book project “Sketching the Flavors of Hanoi’s Old Quarter”. Kim Ngan Communal House – one of the most iconic architectural relics of Hanoi’s Old Quarter, with its moss-covered tiled roof, dark wooden pillars, and tranquil space amidst the bustling city – was the perfect choice to embody the spirit of the book.
From early afternoon, the venue was filled with a warm and nostalgic atmosphere. Guests stepping into the communal house were welcomed by soothing instrumental music, the faint scent of incense, and sketches of the Old Quarter displayed across the rooms.
Each artwork vividly depicted the narrow alleys around Hoan Kiem Lake, familiar street vendors, and rustic local delicacies. The image of a pho seller beside a glowing charcoal stove, baskets brimming with bánh khúc (steamed cudweed sticky rice with mung bean and pork belly filling), or a bicycle laden with steaming sticky rice baskets became familiar highlights in the minds of Old Quarter residents. The decor, rich with historical charm, featured calligraphy panels, parallel sentences, and soft golden lighting, creating an ambiance that was both solemn and intimate. More than just an exhibition space, it was a place to relive memories of Hanoi’s Old Quarter.
Opening Ceremony – Journey of maintaining the memories of the Old Quarter
Amid the solemn and ancient ambiance of Kim Ngan Communal House, the launch event for Sketching the Flavors of Hanoi’s Old Quarter officially began, taking attendees on an emotional journey through the echoes and transformations of the capital’s past.
The MC’s voice rose gently yet filled with pride, serving as an introduction to this nostalgic voyage: “Dear guests, today we gather in Kim Ngan Communal House – a place where every wall, every roof tile is steeped in the essence of the Old Quarter. ‘Sketching the Flavors of Hanoi’s Old Quarter’ is our tribute to the people and flavors that have shaped the soul of this Trang An land.”
The atmosphere grew still, giving way to waves of emotion as Tran Thi Thanh Thuy, head of the Hanoi Urban Sketching Group, stepped onto the stage. In her warm voice, she shared the three-year journey of bringing the book to life – a journey not only of artistic creation but of exploration, of listening, and of capturing the essence of Hanoi through its winding alleys and humble eateries: “We began our mornings early, following pho vendors, bún riêu sellers… capturing their images and stories about Hanoi’s rustic dishes. Each sketch, each page in this book is a fragment of memory, a breath of the Old Quarter. These flavors are not just fleeting tastes but enduring imprints in the hearts of Hanoi’s people.”
The book launch event is not just an introduction to the work but also an opportunity for the Editorial Board to gather valuable feedback from scientists, cultural and historical researchers, policymakers, experts, and Hanoi lovers. Two-thirds of the book has been completed, with draft versions displayed at the event as an open invitation for everyone to join in preserving the memory of the Old Quarter. The Editorial Board hopes that the remaining one-third of the content will be contributed by those who love and understand Hanoi, coming together to safeguard the city’s rich cultural heritage. The book is expected to be officially released on October 10, and the organizers are actively seeking dedicated sponsors and partners to help bring this heartfelt project to life.
The sketches in the book are not merely drawn records but heartfelt recreations of Hanoi’s culinary culture, way of life, and unique identity. They depict street vendors weaving through narrow alleys, the flickering glow of charcoal stoves in time-honored pho shops, and the familiar smiles of hawkers who have become inseparable from the rhythm of Old Quarter life.
Seminar – Sketching the flavors, keeping the urban soul intact
Professor Le Van Lan, one of Vietnam’s foremost historians, shared profound insights into the history of Hanoi’s cuisine, tracing its evolution from the days of Thang Long – Ke Cho: “When did Hanoi’s pho originate? Some say the 19th century, others believe it emerged during the French colonial period. But pho is more than just a dish – it is culture, memory, and the very soul of Hanoi.”
The birth of Sketching the Flavors of Hanoi’s Old Quarter is more than the publication of a book; it is a cultural declaration – a place where memory and the present intertwine, where Hanoi’s identity is vividly revived through each stroke of the pen and every shared story. It is a tribute to those who have shaped the face of Hanoi, a commitment to preserving cultural values from fading with time. This book is not just an artistic creation but a living heritage, a bridge connecting past and present. Each sketch is a doorway, opening into a world of flavors, memories, and stories long thought forgotten within the heart of the Old Quarter. From steaming bowls of pho and fragrant plates of bún chả to the delicate green hue of bánh cốm (green rice cake with mung bean filling), these are not just dishes – they are the essence of Trang An, the quiet yet enduring pulse that has nourished Hanoi’s spirit for generations.
Keeping the urban soul through each sketch
The launch event for the book “Sketching the Flavors of Hanoi’s Old Quarter” was more than just an introduction to a new work; it was a journey back to the roots of Hanoi’s memories – a place where the past, present, and future intertwine through each sketch and story. Amid the rapid flow of urbanization, these sketches serve as a gentle reminder that the soul of the city is not just in its moss-covered rooftops or stone-paved streets, but in the aroma of a steaming bowl of pho in the early morning, the nighttime street cries echoing through narrow alleys, and the warm smiles of street vendors.
Pham Vu Thuong Nhung, a devoted companion in this project, shared her heartfelt emotions: “If there is one image that has stayed with me throughout the making of this book, it is the quiet presence of street vendors passing through the city. They do not just sell snacks – they carry on their shoulders the memories of the Old Quarter, the values that form the soul of Trang An. I always wonder, if one day the street cries disappear and the vendors are gone, will the city still be the same?”
From this deep concern, Nhung conceived the idea of Tram Hang Rong (Vendor Station) – a small space in the heart of the Old Quarter where street vendors could find a place to pause, to continue nurturing the flavors of the city and preserving the values that define Hanoi’s identity. “The book is a tribute, but Tram Hang Rong – if it becomes a reality – will be a way to turn love into action, ensuring that memories do not just remain on paper but continue to live on in the heart of the city.”
Sketching is not merely an art – it is an effort to preserve the original essence of Hanoi amidst the passage of time. No matter how the city changes, its soul will endure – in every sketch, in every story, and in the very breath of its people.
