HomeEntertainmentThe Sly Feminism of...

The Sly Feminism of the ‘Wicked’ Costumes

Designer Paul Tazewell reveals how he modernized the outfits of Glinda, Elphaba and the rest of the Oz-ian cast.

Ariana Grande in her Glinda dress adorned with beads, crystals and sequins.

From the dazzling period costumes in West Side Story and Harriet to the looks in the magical world of Wicked, Academy Award-nominated costume designer Paul Tazewell has shown that few artists weave as much versatility into their creative DNA. “I love period work and telling stories connected to history. What excited me about Wicked was designing a world rooted in period silhouettes while also creating a fantasy,” he says.

For the monumental task of transforming the beloved Broadway hit into two films, the designer says he drew upon a wealth of inspiration: “Wicked was about digging deep into where the original story came from. With the L. Frank Baum book, the 1939 film, Gregory Maguire’s Wicked and the Broadway musical, you’ve got four distinct expressions of the same story.” Maintaining the essence of the show while putting his own spin on it, Tazewell introduced a fresh perspective without entirely modernizing it. “We stayed true to the play’s visual language,” he says, “but added layers that reflect the characters’ emotional journeys.” Tazewell had an even more personal connection to the Oz universe, noting that “I used to watch it every year. It’s part of my visual memory bank, and it shaped how I see icons.” This familiarity contributes to the feeling of the costumes as both nostalgic and original.

One trademark of Tazewell’s Wicked work lies with his rootedness in character, bringing depth and nuance to the film’s fantastical wardrobes. Two standout costumes — Cynthia Erivo‘s Elphaba witch hat and her Emerald City dress — reflect this philosophy. “I make design decisions specific to the character and their story, thinking about what choices they would make and how that relates to their identity,” he explains. “For Elphaba and Glinda, it’s all about balancing their relationship and how their costumes evolve along with them,” set against a world of light and dark contrasts.

Mushroom, fungus and Fibonacci spirals served as inspiration for Elphaba’s dresses, resulting in a Victorian-inspired silhouette rooted in 1890s fashion that pays tribute to the original Wicked Witch of the West, played by Margaret Hamilton in the 1939 film.

Ariand Grande’s Glinda bubble dress and the use of pink pay homage to the original Glinda, Billie Burke, from 1939’s classic The Wizard of Oz, while emphasizing more modern notions of femininity. “The fabric has that same translucent quality, but we gave it a more sculptural, modern interpretation,” Tazewell says. “It’s all fantasy clothing, but I wanted to create a new icon — something fresh for these characters.”

Inspired by “bubbles floating into the sky,” Glinda’s dress is a technical marvel. Beneath the gown is a crinoline layer reminiscent of a petticoat, topped with iridescent organza. “It has hooping to create structure and functions like a traditional hoop skirt,” Tazewell says, describing the engineering challenges he confronted. “I placed stiff nylon netting cut into spiral shapes and twisted into cones to give the gown lightness.

Glinda’s dress was inspired by the idea of bubbles floating in the sky, while the pink paid homage to actress Billie Burke’s portrayal of Glinda the Good Witch of the North in the 1939 classic The Wizard of Oz

The dress, adorned with beads, crystals and sequins, evokes a sense of whimsy. “It had to feel weightless, as if it were floating on air. There was a lot of engineering involved to ensure it moved gracefully when Ariana Grande wore it,” Tazewell continues. Inspirations also include the timeless elegance of Grace Kelly and Dior’s 1950s skirt suits, adding a touch of vintage glamour to the designs.

When crafting Elphaba’s wardrobe, Tazewell took more than a few risks, leaning into the character’s darkness and individuality. Having collaborated with Erivo on Harriet (the two share a love of fashion), Tazewell notes that “Elphaba may be marginalized and ostracized, but that doesn’t mean she lacks personal style. I wanted to make bolder choices for her — a reflection of her inner world.”

The result is a Victorian-inspired silhouette rooted in 1890s fashion, paying tribute to the original Wicked Witch of the West (Margaret Hamilton in the 1939 film). The designer drew from organic elements — mushrooms, fungus and Fibonacci spirals — to inspire the earthy textures, such as micropleated fabric and felted details. Says Tazewell: “There’s a whimsy in the way her bodice embroidery and puffed sleeves interact; and how the skirt moves when she spins, I always think about how she would take up space and move through the world.”

Tazewell notes that a governing philosophy of his designs is the choices made by those who wear them. “For every character, I live vicariously through their story,” he says. “Their needs influence my investment in the work. I want to infer a quality of life for them, one that becomes real once the actor steps into the costume and fully inhabits the role.”

The costumes for Elphaba (played by Cynthia Erivo) leaned into the character’s darkness and individuality, says costume designer Paul Tazewell.

Source: he Hollywood Reporter, https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/movies/movie-features/wicked-costumes-elphaba-glinda-feminism-1236069954/

- A word from our sponsors -

spot_img

Most Popular

More from Author

Kinh Bac Agriculture with the mission of bringing e-commerce closer to farmers

E-commerce is exploding and spreading across all fields, including agriculture, boosting...

Cuddles and coffee on the menu at a pet rescue café

Located in HCM City, WagWel stands out as a pet café...

Rice paper craft village in Tiền Giang prepares for Tết

Visiting Hậu Thành Commune in Cái Bè District, Tiền Giang Province...

Thailand-Pakistan trade talks revived after decade

Between January and November 2024, trade between the two nations reached...

- A word from our sponsors -

spot_img

Read Now

Kinh Bac Agriculture with the mission of bringing e-commerce closer to farmers

E-commerce is exploding and spreading across all fields, including agriculture, boosting businesses to invest in their technology and develop their online retailing channels. This is not just a trend but a necessity that helps businesses seize opportunities, expand markets, and enhance their competitiveness. With the support of...

Cuddles and coffee on the menu at a pet rescue café

Located in HCM City, WagWel stands out as a pet café system that also functions as a sanctuary, offering abandoned dogs and cats a fresh start in a safe and loving environment. Quỳnh Anh Pet cafes have become a global craze, beloved by many for years. At these cafes, customers...

Rice paper craft village in Tiền Giang prepares for Tết

Visiting Hậu Thành Commune in Cái Bè District, Tiền Giang Province during the year-end days, one can feel the vibrant atmosphere of the rice paper craft village as locals busily prepare for Tết. TIỀN GIANG — Visiting Hậu Thành Commune in Cái Bè District, Tiền Giang Province during the...

Thailand-Pakistan trade talks revived after decade

Between January and November 2024, trade between the two nations reached US$1.031 billion, with Thailand exporting goods worth $781.36 million and importing $250.40 million in products such as seafood, crude oil, and textiles. BANGKOK — Thailand and Pakistan have agreed to restart discussions under their Joint Trade Committee (JTC)...

Thailand adjusts target for Asian visitors

The Tourism Authority of Thailand has set a target of welcoming 2 million visitors from the RoK in 2025, up from 1.8 million in 2024. BANGKOK — The Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) is revising its target for Asian visitors this year, focusing on potential markets to counter a...

Films by Indian-origin filmmakers earn top nods at BAFTA Awards 2025 [Upd 1]

The nominations for the coveted British Academy Film Awards (BAFTA) 2025 are finally out. NEW DELHI – The nominations for the coveted British Academy Film Awards (BAFTA) 2025 are finally out. As per expectations, Payal Kapadia’s ground-breaking directorial All We Imagine as Light is in the run for the Best Foreign Language...

Trump signs executive orders pulling US out of WHO, Paris climate accord

Trump also signed a few other executive orders in front of the crowd at Capital One Arena in Washington DC, just a few hours after being sworn in as the 47th president of the United States, including the revocation of nearly 80 executive orders from the Biden administration. WASHINGTON...

President Trump vows new US ‘golden age’ as second term begins

"The golden age of America begins right now. From this day forward our country will flourish and be respected again all over the world," Trump said in the Capitol, where the inauguration was held indoors for the first time in decades, due to freezing weather. WASHINGTON — Donald...

New books celebrate Tết

A series of new books featuring Vietnamese culture and lifestyle have been released to celebrate the Tết (Lunar New Year) festival in the Year of the Snake, which begins on January 29. HCM CITY — A series of new books featuring Vietnamese culture and lifestyle have been released to celebrate the Tết (Lunar New Year) festival in...

Craft villages, cuisine, and folk arts: Gen Z’s journey to preserve heritage

Gen Z is leading the charge in safeguarding Vietnam’s cultural heritage with "Net Viet Nam," a project blending modern storytelling with traditional values. The "Net Viet Nam" project connects Gen Z with traditional Vietnamese culture through immersive journeys exploring craft villages, cuisine, and national heritage. Through authentic videos,...

G4 ambassadors sing in Vietnamese to celebrate Tet with a heartfelt message

Singing in Vietnamese, the G4 ambassadors delivered a heartfelt performance of “Năm qua đã làm gì” at Thang Long Imperial Citadel, wishing the Vietnamese people a happy and harmonious Tet. The G4 ambassadors to Vietnam, representing Canada, New Zealand, Norway, and Switzerland, delivered a heartwarming Tet performance of...

Prime Minister to host real estate conference with major developers

A nationwide conference chaired by the Prime Minister will bring together government leaders and major real estate enterprises to advance social housing and market reforms. The Ministry of Construction has proposed that the Prime Minister host a conference to promote social housing development and ensure a healthy, sustainable...