New York Fashion Week kicked things off with emerging trends, like pastel pops of color—see the sweet blush at Phillip Lim and frosted lips at Sandy Liang—that proceeded to make their way across the pond (see the bubblegum pink eyes at Marques’Almeida) and all the way to Paris. And you couldn’t have missed the major spiky lash moments at Diotima, Harris Reed, and Dries Van Noten, either. Editors’ note: Keep your colored mascaras on deck for spring.
Of course, while there were the big statements, there were also the beauty looks that hinged on the perennial appeal of fresh-looking skin, like those at Ulla Johnson, Emilia Wickstead, and Salvatore Ferragamo. Or the effortless effect of embracing a winded flush, à la Dior, or flyaways like those seen on both the Prada and Miu Miu runways.
To get inspired, see all of the biggest beauty trends below, and check back at our evolving backstage report throughout fashion month.
Pretty in Pastels
Who doesn’t love a dose of confectionary sweetness come fall? Sandy Liang was thinking pink this season, all the way down to the lips, where makeup artist Romy Soleimani blended Estée Lauder’s Pure Color Whipped Matte Lip Colors in Air Kiss and Social Whirl to craft a chalky pastel pink lip for a “subtle, futuristic edge.” Also walking the line between flirty and futuristic was the blush at Phillip Lim, where pro Fara Homidi gave each model a “subtle lavender halo around the eyes” using SHEGLAM’s Insta-Ready setting powder in the new shade Taro for a modern pop of color. In London, at Marques’Almeida, model gazes were saturated in vivid bubblegum pink, while in Milan, Marco Rambaldi similarly looked to lilac eye paint. Both opted for a matte finish; it was a modern mod effect. Finally, in Paris, Homidi dreamt up washed-out Technicolor “raver” eyes.
Whimsical Braids
Who doesn’t love a dose of confectionary sweetness come fall? Sandy Liang was thinking pink this season, all the way down to the lips, where makeup artist Romy Soleimani blended Estée Lauder’s Pure Color Whipped Matte Lip Colors in Air Kiss and Social Whirl to craft a chalky pastel pink lip for a “subtle, futuristic edge.” Also walking the line between flirty and futuristic was the blush at Phillip Lim, where pro Fara Homidi gave each model a “subtle lavender halo around the eyes” using SHEGLAM’s Insta-Ready setting powder in the new shade Taro for a modern pop of color. In London, at Marques’Almeida, model gazes were saturated in vivid bubblegum pink, while in Milan, Marco Rambaldi similarly looked to lilac eye paint. Both opted for a matte finish; it was a modern mod effect. Finally, in Paris, Homidi dreamt up washed-out Technicolor “raver” eyes.
Whimsical Braids
This season at Ulla Johnson, hairstylist Joey George was inspired by the vivid paintings of American artist Lee Krasner, whose prints and patterns were featured in the collection. This translated to whimsical woven fishtail updos and geometric cornrow braids, the latter woven into place with the help of Oribe Rough Luxury Soft Molding Paste. Plaits also made a punctuated statement at Missoni, where hairstylist Jawara riffed on the Italian house’s iconic zigzag with intricate cornrow braids.
Goth Glamour
Tapping into the dark side of spring, Wiederhoeft drew inspiration from the 1947 film Black Narcissus and served up full-tilt goth glamour: Glossy “slept-in” hair (courtesy of Oribe Après Beach Wave and Shine Spray) and “quiet grunge” eyes and lips designed by MAC makeup artist Sharryn Hinchliffe. A similar mood could be felt at Area, with its punk lips—painted on with MAC MACximal Silky Matte lipsticks in Antique Velvet and Caviar—and raked-back, lived-in lengths enhanced with TRESemmé Extra Hold Mousse. For a more pared-back take, consider the smoked-out cat eyes at Gucci, which delivered a touch of moody drama on the runway.
Wind-Swept Glamour
You’ll want to embrace a certain kind of lived-in beauty this spring. At Dior, the flushed cheeks—dubbed “workout blush” by makeup artist Peter Philips—evoked a woman who gets her blood pumping simply by running around town. Then, at both Prada and Miu Miu, Miuccia Prada was all in on windswept wisps and disheveled lengths. A similar come-as-you-are spirit was felt in the boho beauty at Chloé, too. The lesson? Toss the hot tools and leave your comb at home.
Ballerina Bears
Ever the show for romantics, Simone Rocha’s spring collection was inspired by ballerinas. The theme was reflected in the show-stopping beauty: crystal flower hair clips, blood-red lips, petal eye masks, and woven updos were all in the mix. There was a similar mood at Harris Reed, with artful fringe and paled-out eyeshadow playing off of the collection’s powdery pinks and yellows.
Swooped Statements
There’s no better way to accent the face than with details that attract the eye. At Christian Siriano, hairstylist Lacy Redway molded sculptural S-waves, mixing TRESemmé Mega Control Gel with large loose glitter for a touch of shimmer and shine along the hairline. In Milan, a similar hair moment came courtesy of Jil Sander, where bangs were gelled, center-parted, and swooped to either side to set a retro, cinematic mood. And the grand finale? That would be Casablanca, where a set of kiss curls stole the show.
Fresh Skin
Whether setting the stage for a full face or doing all the heavy lifting for a beauty look, skin care is an essential backstage—and this season was no exception. For Ulla Johnson’s bright-and-early show, makeup artist Romy Soleimani revived skin with a face massage using Sisley Paris Ginkgo Gua Sha before working Black Rose Skin Infusion Cream to create a plump and glowing base. At Prabal Gurung, glass skin was in. “We wanted the look to exude freshness and pureness,” says makeup artist Sil Bruinsma, who combined Peach and Lily’s Wild Dew Treatment Essence and Glass Skin Refining Serum for a deluge of hydration and light-catching shine. The emphasis on skin-first beauty was also front row and center at Salvatore Ferragamo, where models like Paloma Elsesser sported virtually bare glows.
Unforgettable Lashes
The lashes had it at Harris Reed, where makeup artist Sofia Tilbury worked her magic. “[She] took all my crazy wild dreams of Victorian dolls, the fabulous 90s, and the ice blue and warm golds to create the looks for me that I could’ve never seen outside of the realms of my own imagination without her,” said Reed. The vibe echoed the epic fringe at Diotima in New York, where makeup artist Kanako Takase crafted fluttery sets of false lashes in ultra-bright red and white to add an unexpected burst of color and texture to the eyes. Cementing the lash fever, Dries Van Noten added more neon lashes to the mix in eye-popping shades of fuchsia and tangerine in Paris.
Pops of Floral
The ever-present notion of florals for spring is as literal as ever. At Simone Rocha, select model gazes were affixed with a mask of flower petals. Then, at Emilia Wickstead, there were silk bloom-adorned headpieces in soft shades of pink and blue. Romantic and ever spring-ready!
’90s Makeup
Thin brows, cool neutrals, and lined lips—the hallmarks of ’90s makeup were out in full force this fashion month. It began in New York at Kim Shui, where sheer brown and butterscotch nudes nodded to the decade. Then, at Marni, razor-thin brows took the telltale arches of the ’90s to a new extreme. Finally, at Casablanca in Paris, Homidi had models looking “rich” with chalky gray smoky eyes and lined lips.
