Braids are one of the most versatile protective styles for all natural hair types. However, when you’re dealing with thin natural hair, not all plaited styles are created equal. Jumbo braids for thin hair? That would be a hard pass. Lengthy box braids then? Don’t think so either. Finding the right braids for thin natural hair should consider how it will affect the health of your hair (rather than damaging it) and of course, how they will look when worn. Fortunately, there are a number of plaits that come highly recommended for those with thin natural hair. In fact, we tapped hair experts to get their top picks, as well as insight into the causes of thinning hair, the best treatments, and what to consider before deciding which braided style is right for you.
So if you want to avoid common pitfalls with braiding thinner hair—like sores, scalp tightness, and hair loss—keep reading for our favorite braids for thin hair and the best tips for wearing them.
Causes of Thinning Hair
Androgenetic Alopecia
Andy Goren, M.D., chief medical officer for hair wellness brand Daniel Alain, says there are many reasons why hair begins to thin. “The most common reason for hair thinning is androgenetic alopecia, which is caused by genetics and high levels of androgens,” he explains.
Androgens are masculine sex hormones.1 like testosterone, and lead to hair thinning because they can make the hair follicle smaller and shorten the growth phase, medical and cosmetic dermatologist Dhaval Bhanusali, M.D., previously told InStyle.
Haircare Routine, Hairstyles, and Products
Dr. Goren adds that many cosmetic hair treatments and products can put undue stress on the hair, potentially causing permanent hair damage or loss. This can result from tight ponytails, overly tight braids, frequent heat styling, and the use of extensions. To determine the underlying cause of your hair loss, Dr. Goren suggests seeing a dermatologist.
How to Regain Hair Thickness
Apply Moisturizing and Volumizing Treatments
To help your hair regain thickness, it’s important to rebuild and hydrate the hair by applying regular moisturizing treatments like Flawless By Gabrielle Union Repairing Deep Conditioning Masque, says Larry Sims, celebrity hairstylist and co-founder of Flawless by Gabrielle Union. Michelle O’Connor, a celebrity hairstylist and global artistic director for Matrix, agrees, adding that you should also consider volumizing products—like shampoos, conditioners, and mousses.
Avoid Excessive Heat Styling
“Keeping heat off of your hair and leaving it in its natural state helps to thicken it. A healthy, balanced diet also helps the health of the hair and can potentially help with enhancing thickness,” Sims says.
Consider Taking Minoxidil
Dr. Goren also recommends minoxidil, which is one of the most popular hair growth supplements. “Daniel Alain’s Minoxidil Response Test reports if minoxidil will be an effective treatment for you within seven to 14 days and can help narrow down the cause of hair loss and get to the root of the problem faster.”
Tips for Braiding Thin Hair
According to Sims, hair braiding styles for thin hair can be both good and bad. “Braiding is great for preserving your hair and staying away from the use of heat on the hair, especially for thinner hair,” says the stylist. “But you have to make sure that your braid styles don’t have a lot of tension, especially around the hairline, and aren’t heavy, but on the contrary, are really light.”
For the most part, you can’t create any braided hairstyle without tension, says O’Connor. “However, there are areas that are more delicate—like the hairline—so we try to create detailing there instead of incorporating it into the braid.” That’s because these hairs are more prone to damage from tension or pulling. As far as the weight of the added hair, O’Connor suggests not incorporating too much hair—lest it gets too heavy for your strands.
The Best Braids for Thin Hair
Tribal Braids
This tribal-inspired braid style is perfect for thinning hair because it’s lightweight and doesn’t incorporate baby hairs. “To complete this look, it’s crucial to focus on the style at the base of the head. Sectioning the hair before braiding is also key,” says celebrity hairstylist Dhairius Thomas. “Apply an edge control or pomade to the cornrows for clean, sleek braids.”
Micro Braids
If you’ve heard of micro braids, you may be a bit hesitant to try them—the name alone suggests that they may take a while to install. But Sims says if you have thin hair, micro braids can make your head of hair look full. “Gabrielle Union is a fan of micro braids,” says the stylist. “I like the lightness of them, they’re not heavy like box braids. I would never suggest box braids for someone with thin hair because of the heaviness. You really should go for braids that are really thin so the weight doesn’t pull too much on your hair.”
French Plait
French plaits are a quick, easy style to do. “You can literally part your hair down the middle and do a feed in for two cornrows on each side,” says Sims. Parting your hair down the center and splitting the difference makes thin hair look thicker, and helps to cover up any patches, the expert adds.
If you have thin edges, Sims recommends smoothing Flawless by Gabrielle Union Repairing Edge Control along the hairline to style the edges and to create sleek finish. “This non-greasy edge control is also ideal for smoothing fly-aways and delivers shine to help rebuild thinning edges.”
Cornrows With Baby Hairs
If you have short, thinning edges, slicking down your baby hairs is a great way to leave them out and avoid creating tension. This look is a great example of how hot slick baby hairs can look with a braided style. Plus, Thomas loves this style for thin hair because it reduces tension.
“I love the duality of this braided look with its soft-hard textures,” says Thomas. “A key to braiding hair of finer textures in a style like this is to use a pomade to slick both sides of the cornrow to create a narrow braiding path. I like to use Dark & Lovely’s Blowout Shine Gloss Serum Balm. To preserve the style and prevent any frizz, I usually recommend that my clients wear a silk scarf or bonnet.”
Braided Ponytail
“Using hair extensions to add braided detail to a ponytail is a great way to make a cornrow ponytail look thicker,” says Sims. “This look has braid details but I didn’t braid Regina King’s entire head of hair.” Instead, the stylist incorporated King’s hair into braids that lead straight into the ponytail. “The long double-strand twist piece that I added is light and not heavy,” Sims adds.
Knotless Braids
As much as we love braids, we have to admit that the knots used to secure traditional braids are hard to remove and can tug at your scalp too. Knotless braids are a great protective style for thin hair because there is less tension at the root. Additionally, with no knot to remove, much damage to your scalp is minimal.
Cornrows With Single Braids
“Karrueche Tran looks great with these cornrows, it’s a good style for thin hair because it protects it,” says Sims. “The single braids at the back of Tran’s head make the base of the cornrows look fuller. “I love the fact that it has a lot of braids at the base.” Sims adds that when there are fewer braids, you can see how thin someone’s hair is between the spacing of the braids. This singular cornrow look, though, tends to camouflage hair thinness.
